Great Falls TR (01/31/2010)

Headed out to Great Falls, VA to check out route conditions on 2 lines I've had my eye on.  Today's conditions were 4"-6" of snow.  The last 4 days have kept sub-freezing temps and I was hopeful that any ice formed was staying put.

The Rack:
(1) yellow alien, (1) red alien, (1) #.5 bd camalot, (2) #1 bd camalot, (1) #2 bd camalot
DMM walnuts 1,3,5,7,9
Hexs 6,7,8
(4) shoulder length slings w/ wiregate carabiners
(1) double length sling w/ wiregate carabiner
(2) free wiregate carabiners
(4) locking carabiners
40m 10.5mm rope
(2) Black Diamond Black Prophets
Vasque leather mountaineering boots
No crampons or ice screws required

I hiked over to Microdome in hopes of seeing some ice, but it was in the sun and no ice to be found.  I headed off down the carriage road towards the Quarry.

First on the list was a chimney on this 50 ft north west facing cliff across from the old Quarry.  It sits just near a small water fall and looks rather large from the trail.  I had scouted it out and tried it once before with Ben K from PMC.  Today's conditions were more favorable.  I set up my rope solo anchor at the base and lead out the chimney.  It's covered in snow, but the cold temps keep it packed when I move over the small ledges. I thought I would need my axes more to get through some sections, but I ended up only using them once to hook a small edge and again to move over some frozen moss.  I'd give the route a rock rating of 5.9, and a mixed rating of M4.  After topping out, I set my anchor and rapped the route, cleaning my pieces.  I set about 8 pieces.   Usually, I'd untie my bottom anchor, self belay as I seconded the pitch and climb again, but I was short on time and wanted to check another route.  I hiked around and took down my rope.

A quick snack and drink and I was off towards Cow Hoof and Echo Rock.  This whole area is great for tromping around and working on footing in snow.  The gully left of the climb F.I.S.T is a great training area for moving fast without a rope over class 4/low class 5.

I had scouted the climb "Walk the Plank", a 5.7 before on my full Echo Rock traverse attempt, and again with Ben K when temps were low.  This time, I believed that this route would be able to go with thin ice and compacting snow.

After a quick recon on a tension rappel, I moved back up to the top of the route and anchored my rope to a large tree.  I anchored my backpack here, just out of sight of the trail and rappelled the route to waterline.  I set myself up on a top rope solo with my ATC Guide, as I wasn't sure how much gear would go.  The route is totally leadable and I will come back again (preferable with a partner).  As I climbed, I used my picks more on this route and found some good sections of 2-4 inch thick ice with a few bulges.  I could have used crampons on this, but there was enough to get by without.  This route went at 5.7 M5, with short moves on ice and roughly 70-80 ft high.

Both routes are great opportunities to get in alpine style or mixed climbing in the area.  I'm not sure if they've been climbed before or in the winter with ice, so I'll hold off on claiming first acsent.  But if they haven't, then I'll be naming them after my daughter.

Climb on!