I've got a woodie

That's right. The home wall (or woodie to boulderererers) is up and working great. My buddy Dave asked that I document how this came to be, so here ya go.

Parts I required:

(6) 2x6 8 ft boards

(6) 2x4 8 ft boards

(alot) deck screws [#14 x 3-1/2"]

(8) 2x6 joist hangers

(4) 4x8 3/4" BCX sheet plywood (cheaper than ACX, plus same holding power)

(1) imagination

(1.5) sense of humor

(1) tolerant and trusting spouse who would let me tear down a perfectly good wall and build a tilted one overhead all the while swearing it is "safe"

I read a lot of different blogs and how-to's online in order to start getting comfortable with building this. The most helpful was from Metolius (pdf). Also check Indoor Climbing and 3Ball Climbing.

First I cleared out anything that was in the area I wanted to build the wall. It starts with a 3 foot high by 8 foot wide kicker panel. Above this is the 45 degree 8 foot by 8 foot wall. So far I've put in a small horizontal roof section, but it will be replaced with a 4'x8' for a full roof. Along climbers left is a vertical wall that is 10 feet high and 8 feet deep to allow for variety. This is the finished product:

I started by building the 3x8 kicker panel with supports:

The kicker frame is basic, two 8 foot 2x4s secured with 2x4s of blocking. Since there was not supports along the right side, I secured it to the ceiling with a 2x6. The above rafters/supports are solid 4x4s and I think could statically hold a small circus of elephants if need be. They never budge. 70s construction is bomber.

From here I used a line and level to get the correct angle from the top of the kicker panel to the full length of a 8 foot 2x6. I wanted to maxamize my space, materials and not have to cut the plywood if possible. I cut one 2x6 to specs and used it as a template for the other three. I used another 2x6 to secure the joists above. I also have a second 2x6 a few inches apart to allow for the roof expansion. [Notice the two seperate 2x6s on the overhead rafters]

I drilled all the holes for holds before securing to the joists. Make sure you drill from the "climbing side". This will cause the splinters from drilling the holes to be on the other side. I drilled mine on 6 inch or 8 inch off sets to give it more variety. Then install t-nuts into every cut hole.

From here it's easy. Cut a plywood to fit the 3x8 kicker panel and secure. The kicker panel only has 3 t-nuts installed, as much of it will be screw-in foot holds. The overhanging 4x8s go in next, be sure to have someone help hold it up while you are securing it to the joists.

I cut the vertical secitons to fit. The next phase will be putting up a plywood on the opposite side on the vertical section, as well as building out under the stairs. Stay tuned for that!

Lastly is the fun part, setting holds. I purchased the Metolius Mega Pack 50 to start with. Also, I a single set of PowerLine jugs for the roof section.

You can see, I also drilled 2 holes on the overhead 2x6 to attach the hanging Metolius Rock Rings. These are a must for any cave. It allows for dead arm hang training as well as varied pull ups on jugs, crimps, or 2 digits. Make sure to cover your fall zone, I use a crash pad and some couch cushions. A full size mattress (or two) might work better to cover the entire area.

So there you have it. All problems in my cave "Valhalla" are sit-starts. This sucks, as I hate sit starts, but it gives the most back. Get cranking. Any questions, hit me at brian@fuzzypimp.com