Springfield, VA Bouldering

From 2009-06-29, Boulders Springfield, VA

Ooooh, aaaah. Some juicy local rock. Needs a bit of clean-up, but some solid looking problems.

First indoor V5 sent

After working all but the sit-start to a new V5+ at Sterling SportRock, I nail the sequence and send it 5th try.  If you are in the area, it's located in the back corner and is marked with neon yellow tape.  I found it challenging but a nice line up an immdiatly overhangin arete to a medium matching hold.  The Roman chair is paying off as the 2nd to last move requires an all abs twist and full layback before making the last move to a 3-finger crimper and top out.  

Whoo-eeee! 

After that, it was on to another V5 that most likely will be changed out this coming week and an onsight of a new V4+ and another dasterdly overhanging V4.

How To Increase Your "Pull Strength" by 20 Percent!

Horst is the man. This guy has some of the best guidance out there for better performing at the crag or at your local gym.

How To Increase Your "Pull Strength" by 20 Percent!

Patience pays off

And I send my first gym 5.10. Unreal how I find indoor much harder than outdoor climbing. But a few good warm up runs and some easy bouldering.... Bam.... Onsight the new 5.10c/d at SportRock along with an unknown/unmarked route that probably rated at 5.10a/b.

A good plan, violently executed now, is better than a perfect plan next week

Patton said that.   So a plan it is.

Monday, Wednesday, Friday:

• Reverse wristcurls (2x20)
  
• Pull-ups (5x15 or failure)  2 min Rests between
  
• Uneven Pull-ups (2x to failure)
  
• Push-ups (3x to failure)
  
• Overhead Shoulder Press (3x20) medium weight '15-25 lbs'
  
• Dips (3x to failure)
• 30 minute Run / 30 Minute Bike

Tuesday, Thursday:

• Climb @ Gym --  Training Days (1.5 - 2.5 hours)
  
• 10 Minute streches
• 15 mintes warm up traverses / V0 - V2
• 2 roped / longer routes at 5.8 & 5.9
• 2 routes 1 grade less than hardest redpoint/onsight
• Project time
• Last 20 minutes V1 - V3 cooldown
• Leg lifts on Roman Chair (3x to failure)
• 10 Second Dead Hangs (8x)

Saturday or Sunday:

• Climb Outside (Bad Weather?  Go to Gym) -- Performance Day
• Warm up on 5.9 or less, then off to the races
• Other day is Rest day

Yipslon Mountin, RMNP, CO

I reach one the lesser peaks on my way up Fairchild Mtn and snapped this shot of Yipslon Mtn and it's beastly gully's.