'Juliana' M5 5.9 PG (FA: Brian Haugli, rope-solo, 2010)

Named after my daughter. I sent this on a rope solo set up.  Mixed route (M5) with a few 5.9 moves. Starts between the base of the two trees in the lower left of the picture, then moves up and right around a bulge on packed snow stances.  Move up the crack to the enclosed chimney, stem the top and move up and left to exit. 60+ ft.

Pics of a second trip with Darren and Ben.  We opted to top rope it.
http://picasaweb.google.com/brian.haugli/JulianaSClimbGreatFalls#

Great Falls TR (01/31/2010)

Headed out to Great Falls, VA to check out route conditions on 2 lines I've had my eye on.  Today's conditions were 4"-6" of snow.  The last 4 days have kept sub-freezing temps and I was hopeful that any ice formed was staying put.

The Rack:
(1) yellow alien, (1) red alien, (1) #.5 bd camalot, (2) #1 bd camalot, (1) #2 bd camalot
DMM walnuts 1,3,5,7,9
Hexs 6,7,8
(4) shoulder length slings w/ wiregate carabiners
(1) double length sling w/ wiregate carabiner
(2) free wiregate carabiners
(4) locking carabiners
40m 10.5mm rope
(2) Black Diamond Black Prophets
Vasque leather mountaineering boots
No crampons or ice screws required

I hiked over to Microdome in hopes of seeing some ice, but it was in the sun and no ice to be found.  I headed off down the carriage road towards the Quarry.

First on the list was a chimney on this 50 ft north west facing cliff across from the old Quarry.  It sits just near a small water fall and looks rather large from the trail.  I had scouted it out and tried it once before with Ben K from PMC.  Today's conditions were more favorable.  I set up my rope solo anchor at the base and lead out the chimney.  It's covered in snow, but the cold temps keep it packed when I move over the small ledges. I thought I would need my axes more to get through some sections, but I ended up only using them once to hook a small edge and again to move over some frozen moss.  I'd give the route a rock rating of 5.9, and a mixed rating of M4.  After topping out, I set my anchor and rapped the route, cleaning my pieces.  I set about 8 pieces.   Usually, I'd untie my bottom anchor, self belay as I seconded the pitch and climb again, but I was short on time and wanted to check another route.  I hiked around and took down my rope.

A quick snack and drink and I was off towards Cow Hoof and Echo Rock.  This whole area is great for tromping around and working on footing in snow.  The gully left of the climb F.I.S.T is a great training area for moving fast without a rope over class 4/low class 5.

I had scouted the climb "Walk the Plank", a 5.7 before on my full Echo Rock traverse attempt, and again with Ben K when temps were low.  This time, I believed that this route would be able to go with thin ice and compacting snow.

After a quick recon on a tension rappel, I moved back up to the top of the route and anchored my rope to a large tree.  I anchored my backpack here, just out of sight of the trail and rappelled the route to waterline.  I set myself up on a top rope solo with my ATC Guide, as I wasn't sure how much gear would go.  The route is totally leadable and I will come back again (preferable with a partner).  As I climbed, I used my picks more on this route and found some good sections of 2-4 inch thick ice with a few bulges.  I could have used crampons on this, but there was enough to get by without.  This route went at 5.7 M5, with short moves on ice and roughly 70-80 ft high.

Both routes are great opportunities to get in alpine style or mixed climbing in the area.  I'm not sure if they've been climbed before or in the winter with ice, so I'll hold off on claiming first acsent.  But if they haven't, then I'll be naming them after my daughter.

Climb on!

I've got a woodie

That's right. The home wall (or woodie to boulderererers) is up and working great. My buddy Dave asked that I document how this came to be, so here ya go.

Parts I required:

(6) 2x6 8 ft boards

(6) 2x4 8 ft boards

(alot) deck screws [#14 x 3-1/2"]

(8) 2x6 joist hangers

(4) 4x8 3/4" BCX sheet plywood (cheaper than ACX, plus same holding power)

(1) imagination

(1.5) sense of humor

(1) tolerant and trusting spouse who would let me tear down a perfectly good wall and build a tilted one overhead all the while swearing it is "safe"

I read a lot of different blogs and how-to's online in order to start getting comfortable with building this. The most helpful was from Metolius (pdf). Also check Indoor Climbing and 3Ball Climbing.

First I cleared out anything that was in the area I wanted to build the wall. It starts with a 3 foot high by 8 foot wide kicker panel. Above this is the 45 degree 8 foot by 8 foot wall. So far I've put in a small horizontal roof section, but it will be replaced with a 4'x8' for a full roof. Along climbers left is a vertical wall that is 10 feet high and 8 feet deep to allow for variety. This is the finished product:

I started by building the 3x8 kicker panel with supports:

The kicker frame is basic, two 8 foot 2x4s secured with 2x4s of blocking. Since there was not supports along the right side, I secured it to the ceiling with a 2x6. The above rafters/supports are solid 4x4s and I think could statically hold a small circus of elephants if need be. They never budge. 70s construction is bomber.

From here I used a line and level to get the correct angle from the top of the kicker panel to the full length of a 8 foot 2x6. I wanted to maxamize my space, materials and not have to cut the plywood if possible. I cut one 2x6 to specs and used it as a template for the other three. I used another 2x6 to secure the joists above. I also have a second 2x6 a few inches apart to allow for the roof expansion. [Notice the two seperate 2x6s on the overhead rafters]

I drilled all the holes for holds before securing to the joists. Make sure you drill from the "climbing side". This will cause the splinters from drilling the holes to be on the other side. I drilled mine on 6 inch or 8 inch off sets to give it more variety. Then install t-nuts into every cut hole.

From here it's easy. Cut a plywood to fit the 3x8 kicker panel and secure. The kicker panel only has 3 t-nuts installed, as much of it will be screw-in foot holds. The overhanging 4x8s go in next, be sure to have someone help hold it up while you are securing it to the joists.

I cut the vertical secitons to fit. The next phase will be putting up a plywood on the opposite side on the vertical section, as well as building out under the stairs. Stay tuned for that!

Lastly is the fun part, setting holds. I purchased the Metolius Mega Pack 50 to start with. Also, I a single set of PowerLine jugs for the roof section.

You can see, I also drilled 2 holes on the overhead 2x6 to attach the hanging Metolius Rock Rings. These are a must for any cave. It allows for dead arm hang training as well as varied pull ups on jugs, crimps, or 2 digits. Make sure to cover your fall zone, I use a crash pad and some couch cushions. A full size mattress (or two) might work better to cover the entire area.

So there you have it. All problems in my cave "Valhalla" are sit-starts. This sucks, as I hate sit starts, but it gives the most back. Get cranking. Any questions, hit me at brian@fuzzypimp.com

A good year

Routes done this year that are in the rockclimbing.com database.

Toughest leads, tie: 5.10c in WY at Hobacksheild and 5.10c at Friction Wall near Baltimore.

Hoback Shield - Some 5.10b/c

Hoback Shield - Some 5.9+